HyreRestore

Wind, hail and flood

Storm damage restoration

How a storm inspection finds the damage and its cause, which policy responds to which peril, and how to choose a contractor who will still be here next year.

Updated September 18, 2026

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Written by HyreRestore Research Desk Primary-source research and fact checking

The short answer

Right now: Stay out from under sagging ceilings, damaged roofs and leaning trees, and keep well away from downed power lines. Do not climb onto the roof. Photograph the damage from the ground, then get the openings covered: see emergency board-up and tarping.

Storm damage restoration starts with closing and drying the building, then splits by cause. Wind and hail are homeowners perils, sometimes with their own wind/hail deductible. Flood, water rising from outside, is excluded from standard homeowners policies and insured separately through FEMA’s NFIP or a private policy. The cause of each area decides who pays.

1–5% of the insured value: the typical range for a percentage wind/hail deductible Insurance Information Institute, insurance deductibles
30 days the typical wait before a new NFIP flood policy takes effect FEMA, flood insurance

What decides a storm claim?

The cause, not the size

Wind, hail and flood can fall under different policies. Which one caused each area of damage decides who pays.

Rain through a storm-made opening is not flood

Rain driven in through a torn roof is a homeowners question. Water rising from outside is a flood question.

Close the building first

Tarping and board-up are emergency work, separate from the permanent repair.

Check the address before you sign

Crews that follow storms can be gone before a bad repair shows, and the warranty leaves with them.

Get help with a storm damage project

Free, with no obligation. A person at HyreRestore replies by email. Not an emergency line: matching is not live yet, and nobody is sent to the property.

What should you look for after a storm?

Some storm damage is obvious. The expensive kind can be quiet, which is why the inspection matters more than the first look.

Missing, lifted or creased shingles

And shingle granules collecting at the downspouts.

Dents in soft metal

Gutters, vents, flashing and air conditioner fins record whether hail hit and roughly how big it was.

New ceiling or wall stains

They can appear days after the storm.

Damaged flashing, vents and roof penetrations

Common entry points for water, even when the main roof looks fine.

Broken windows or damaged siding

Look for impact marks on the side of the house that faced the storm.

A wet basement or crawlspace

Where the water came from decides the claim: up from the ground, in at the surface, or down from a roof breach.

What does a proper storm inspection cover?

It has two jobs: find all the damage, and establish what caused it. The claim is decided on the second.

The whole outside of the house

Roof, flashing, penetrations, gutters, siding, windows, doors, soffits and any detached buildings.

Evidence of the cause

Hail impact marks, creases from wind lift, and debris strikes.

The inside under every suspected breach

Including the attic, where water entry shows first.

Moisture readings

The wet area can be larger than the stained area.

The water’s route

Down from a breach, in through an opening or up from the ground. This decides which policy responds.

The roof’s age and condition before the storm

An adjuster will consider it, so know the answer yourself.

How is a storm loss worked, in order?

Safety and photos first, emergency covering next, and the permanent repair only once the pressure is off.

01
Make it safe

Downed power lines, unstable trees and damaged structure come first. The CDC advises staying away from damaged buildings until an inspector or official says they are safe.

02
Photograph before touching anything

Every side of the house and every affected room, with the date. Note the storm date. This set is the backbone of the claim.

03
Close the openings

Tarp and board up every breach. It is separate emergency work with its own invoice.

04
Report the claim

Contact your homeowners insurer, and your flood insurer too if water rose from outside. Two perils can mean two claims and two adjusters.

05
Dry what got wet

A full water mitigation scope with a stated drying goal and daily readings. Wet insulation and walls are the hidden part of storm damage. See water damage restoration.

06
Record the cause for each area

Wind, hail, flood or pre-existing, documented area by area. This decides which policy pays for which repair.

07
Scope and compare the permanent repairs

Written scopes from local, licensed, insured companies with a verifiable local address. The emergency is over, so take your time.

08
Repair and keep the paperwork

Permits where required, matched materials where possible, and a warranty from a company that will exist next year. Keep the photos, drying log, scopes and invoices.

Which peril caused it, and why does that matter?

The same puddle on the same floor can be covered or not, depending on the route the water took. Understand this before you talk to an adjuster.

PerilHow the claim treats it
WindWind tearing off roofing, breaking a window or dropping a tree onto the house is a peril standard homeowners policies are built to cover.
HailCovered under homeowners policies too, but it can carry a separate wind/hail deductible, which the Insurance Information Institute says runs from 1 to 5 percent of the insured value. Check your declarations page.
FloodFEMA says most homeowners insurance does not cover flood. It is written separately through the NFIP or a private flood policy, with a waiting period before it starts.
Wind-driven rainRain forced in through an opening the storm made, such as a torn-off shingle or broken window, is handled as part of the wind damage. Rain through an old defect is treated differently.
Rising waterWater rising from outside, whether an overflowing creek, surface runoff or storm surge, is flood, and outside the homeowners policy.
Sewer or drain backupCan be excluded from the base homeowners policy and sold as an add-on (an endorsement). Check whether you have it before the next storm.

After a big storm, damage can have more than one plausible cause, and the cause recorded decides which policy responds. Dated photos and the weather record for the day carry more weight here than in any other kind of loss.

What moves the price

Storm work spans emergency covering, drying and construction, and your deductible structure can matter as much as the damage.

FactorWhy it changes the number
Emergency tarping and board-upPriced by openings and area, and invoiced separately. Small next to the repair, and important to the claim.
Damage to the outsideRoof repair or replacement, how many sides of siding, how many windows. The largest variable.
DryingA full drying scope, equipment count times days, wherever water got in.
Interior repairsCeilings, walls, insulation and flooring below every breach.
Tree and debris removalIts own trade. Policies can treat a tree that hit the house differently from one that fell in the yard.
Demand after a big stormLabor and materials tighten across a whole region. A real cost driver, and the pressure out-of-town crews rely on.
Code upgrades and matchingRebuilding can trigger current code requirements, and a discontinued shingle or siding may not match. Some policies include ordinance-or-law coverage for code costs; some do not.

HyreRestore publishes no average price for this work. Category of loss, affected area, how long equipment runs and local rebuild costs move the number far enough that a single figure would mislead.

How does a storm claim treat the damage?

How homeowners and flood coverage are built, not what your policy says. Storm coverage varies by region, so read your declarations page.

QuestionHow the claim treats it
Are wind and hail covered?They are perils the standard homeowners forms are built around. Check your limits and any wind/hail deductible.
What is a wind/hail deductible?A separate deductible, paid as a percentage (1 to 5 percent is the typical range, per the III) rather than a flat sum. Run your numbers in the deductible calculator.
What about hurricanes?The III says hurricane deductibles are higher than other homeowners deductibles and usually a percentage of the policy limits. Read the trigger conditions before the season.
Is flood covered?No, not by standard homeowners insurance. It needs an NFIP or private flood policy, and FEMA says an NFIP policy typically takes 30 days to go into effect.
Can one storm mean two claims?Yes. A torn roof and a flooded basement can involve your homeowners insurer and your flood insurer, each covering a different part.
What about an old roof?Insurers separate storm damage from wear. An older roof can be settled on a depreciated basis, or the damage disputed.
Do I have to protect the house?The III tells policyholders to take reasonable steps to prevent further damage and save the receipts. That is why emergency tarping matters.

Coverage is decided by your own policy and the peril, not by what is typical. Read the declarations page, and where the answer matters, put the question to your insurer in writing.

Before you sign in a storm zone, check the address.

Not the phone number and not the truck lettering: the physical business address, the state license, the insurance certificate, and how long the company has worked in your county. A company here for one season can be unreachable when a repair fails next winter. The tarp is already on, so take the day.

Check the flood risk at your address

What to ask before you sign

Which cause are you giving each area of damage?

What evidence supports it?

Could any of this fall under a flood policy?

Rather than my homeowners policy?

Is the emergency work a separate document?

From the permanent repair?

What is your physical business address in this state?

How long have you worked in this county?

What is your license number?

Can I have your insurance certificate from your insurer?

Which legal company stands behind the warranty?
Did water get into walls or insulation?

What is the drying goal, and will I see the log?

Am I signing a work authorization or an assignment of benefits?

Show me which.

What to have ready

Dated photos and video

Every side of the house and every affected room, before any repair or tarping.

The storm’s date and name

Save local weather reports or warnings. NOAA’s Storm Events Database logs events by county.

Your declarations page

Especially the wind, hail and hurricane deductible lines.

Your flood policy, if you have one

Its number and insurer.

The roof’s age

And records of past repairs or storm claims.

Where this goes wrong

Signing with the first company that knocks

After a big storm, out-of-area crews canvass whole neighborhoods. Some do good work. The problem is that they may not be here next year, so the warranty depends on a company that has left. Check the physical address and local history before you sign.

Assuming the homeowners policy covers flood

FEMA says most homeowners insurance does not. Flood is a separate policy with a waiting period, so it cannot be bought once a storm is forecast.

Waiting on quotes before covering the roof

Quotes are for the permanent repair, which can wait. Every hour an opening stays uncovered adds damage inside, and the insurer expects reasonable steps.

Accepting a roof report without photos

Ask for dated photos from the inspection, ideally taken while you are there. Damage in a report that you cannot see in a timestamped photo is a problem for the claim.

Filing before reading the deductible

A percentage wind/hail deductible can be larger than the repair. Knowing it changes whether filing makes sense. Try should I file a claim?

Clearing debris before documenting it

Ruined belongings, damaged fencing, the fallen tree: all of it is evidence. Photograph and list it before it goes. The III says to avoid throwing out damaged items until the adjuster has visited.

Your inquiry

Tell us about the damage

Nothing goes to a restoration company unless you agree.

A person reads it and replies by email, free and with no obligation. Matching is not live yet, so this is not a dispatch line and nobody is sent to the property.

Get Help With Your Restoration Project

One short form: your address and how to reach you. A person at HyreRestore reads it and replies.

Your details

We reply to every inquiry. Nothing is passed on to anyone you have not asked us to contact.

Questions

Is storm damage covered by homeowners insurance?
Partly. Wind and hail are perils homeowners policies are built to cover, sometimes with a separate wind/hail deductible. Flood is excluded and needs its own policy. Sewer backup can need an add-on. One storm can cause damage covered by one policy, another, or neither, so the cause of each area matters.
What is the difference between flood damage and storm damage?
The route the water took. Water coming in through an opening the storm made, such as a torn roof or broken window, is handled as wind damage under homeowners insurance. Water rising from outside, from runoff, a creek or storm surge, is flood, and outside the homeowners policy.
What is a wind or hail deductible?
A separate deductible for wind or hail losses, paid as a percentage of the insured value rather than a flat sum. The Insurance Information Institute puts the typical range at 1 to 5 percent. It is listed on your declarations page apart from the regular deductible. Look for it before a claim.
How do I avoid a storm-chasing contractor?
Check what is hard to fake: a physical business address in your state, a license you confirm with the state board yourself, an insurance certificate from the contractor’s insurer, and local work history from before the storm. Then ask which company carries the warranty. Traveling crews are not the risk; a warranty that leaves town is.
Is hail damage always visible from the ground?
No, and that cuts both ways. Real hail damage to a roof can be invisible from the ground, and roofs are also declared damaged from the ground by people who want the job. Dents in soft metal, such as gutters, vents and AC fins, are the better evidence. Ask for dated photos.
How soon after a storm should I file a claim?
Promptly. Policies require notice within a reasonable time, and linking damage to one storm gets harder as time passes and more storms follow. Photograph and secure the house right away, then report the loss. You do not need a contractor’s scope in hand to file.
Can I get flood insurance once a storm is forecast?
Not in time for that storm, in most cases. FEMA says an NFIP policy typically has a 30-day waiting period before coverage starts, with narrow exceptions such as coverage required by a lender. The time to check your flood risk and coverage is before the season.
Do I have to use the contractor my insurer recommends?
You choose who works on your house; the insurer decides what it will pay. Preferred-vendor companies can be perfectly good and may mobilize faster after a big storm. If you go outside the program, the scope still has to be agreed with the adjuster.
What should I do about a tree on my house?
Treat it as a safety problem first: keep people away, watch for power lines, and do not try to remove it yourself. Have the structure checked before anyone uses that part of the house. Ask your insurer how it treats tree removal, since limits can apply.
Should I sign an assignment of benefits after a storm?
Read it first. An assignment of benefits hands your claim rights to the contractor, who then deals with the insurer. Some states have changed the rules on it after storm-season abuse. Take the document away and read it; a reputable company will wait. See assignment of benefits.

Written and audited by

HyreRestore Research Desk

Primary-source research and fact checking

We are a research desk, not a restoration company and not an insurance adjuster.

We read the federal agency guidance, the state insurance statute or the industry standard ourselves, and we publish the rule with the document it came from and the date we read it.

Where a number cannot be traced to a primary source, we publish the shorter page and say what we could not verify. The counts below are taken from the pages on this site.

56
source documents linked from these pages
15
government (.gov) domains among them
0
average prices published without a source
0
restoration jobs we perform

How this desk works

  • Primary sources only. A mold rule comes from the EPA, a flood rule from FEMA and the NFIP, a claim rule from the state insurance statute. We do not cite an article that cites a source.
  • Every figure carries its retrieval date. Guidance is revised and statutes are amended. A number without the date it was read cannot be checked.
  • Paywalled standards are named, not quoted. IICRC S500 and S520 define the categories and classes of water and mold work. We describe their public structure and say plainly when the controlling text sits behind a purchase.
  • Safety before the claim. Electricity near water, sewage, smoke and mold come first on every page where they apply. We explain the work; we do not tell you to do it yourself.
  • We do not dry, remediate or rebuild anything, we do not adjust claims, and we take no payment for placement, ranking or a favorable mention.

Authorship on this site is organizational: the analysis belongs to the desk rather than to a named individual, and we do not publish credentials we do not hold. Our editorial policy sets out how we source, date and correct what we publish.

Sources & retrieval dates

Severe weather data, storm reports and local climate records, NOAA National Weather Service. Retrieved September 18, 2026.
Storm Events Database, NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information. Retrieved September 29, 2026.
Understanding your insurance deductibles (hurricane, windstorm and hail), Insurance Information Institute. Retrieved September 29, 2026.
How to file a homeowners claim, Insurance Information Institute. Retrieved September 29, 2026.
National Flood Insurance Program, including coverage and waiting periods, FEMA FloodSmart. Retrieved September 18, 2026.
Disaster safety: stay away from damaged buildings until they are certified safe, U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Retrieved September 29, 2026.

Information on this page is general and may vary by location, building code, zoning, the condition of your house and your own circumstances. It is not legal, insurance, medical or engineering advice.

HyreRestore is not a restoration contractor and not an insurance adjuster: we dry nothing, remediate nothing and rebuild nothing, and we do not supervise or warrant anyone's work.

This page explains the work so you can read a scope, judge the company that wrote it and follow your own claim.