HyreRestore

Restoration services

Contents restoration and pack-out

Contents restoration is everything in the building that is not the building: furniture, clothing, electronics, documents, photographs, art, tools, toys. It is a separate scope from the structure, usually a separate line on the claim, and often a separate limit on the policy. The work begins with an inventory taken before anything moves, and the single most valuable thing you can do is refuse to discard anything until the adjuster has seen it or released you in writing.

HyreRestore is not a restoration contractor and not an insurance adjuster. We dry nothing, remediate nothing and rebuild nothing. This page explains the work so you can read a scope, judge the company that wrote it, and follow your own claim.

If this is happening right now. Before anyone carries anything out of the building, photograph and video every room from the doorway, then every damaged item individually, with the damage visible. Ten minutes of footage now is the evidence for the entire contents part of your claim. If a crew is ready to start moving and nothing has been photographed, that is the moment to ask them to wait. Once the property is safe and the source is stopped, you can reach HyreRestore on (866) 582-8523 — but we are a research desk, not an emergency line, and a local company will always be faster.

The short version

  • Contents are a separate scope from the structure — separately inventoried, separately priced, and usually a separate part of the claim with its own limit.
  • The inventory comes first. Nothing should leave the building before it is recorded, photographed and given a condition and a location.
  • On-site cleaning and pack-out to a facility are two different decisions with two different cost profiles. Pack-out adds handling, transport, storage and a second delivery.
  • Some things cannot be salvaged, particularly porous items exposed to category 3 water or heavy soot. A company that promises everything is recoverable is selling, not assessing.
  • Textiles, electronics, documents and photographs are four different trades, frequently subcontracted to specialists.
  • High-value categories — jewellery, furs, firearms, collectibles, cash — commonly carry sub-limits far below the overall contents limit unless they were scheduled.

When contents need a formal process rather than a bin bag

Some losses are small enough that you deal with the belongings yourself. These are the conditions where an inventoried, documented process pays for itself.

  • The water was category 2 or 3, or the loss involved sewage or floodwater, so salvage decisions have a health dimension rather than only a financial one.
  • There was fire or smoke. Soot is both corrosive and pervasive, and odour reaches rooms the flames never did.
  • The room has to be emptied for the structure to be repaired — walls, floors and cabinetry cannot be worked on around furniture.
  • You are claiming for the contents at all. A claim without an inventory is a negotiation without evidence.
  • There are irreplaceable items: photographs, documents, artwork, instruments, anything with a history. These have a short window and specialist routes.
  • The property is uninhabitable and belongings would otherwise sit in a damaged building for weeks.
  • You cannot face doing it yourself, which is a legitimate reason and normally part of a covered scope rather than a luxury.

How salvageability is actually judged

Restorability is a function of the material, what reached it, and how long it sat. These are the factors a competent contents technician is weighing item by item.

  • Porous or non-porous. Glass, metal, sealed ceramic and finished hard surfaces clean well. Upholstery, mattresses, particle board, untreated wood and insulation absorb.
  • What the item was exposed to. Clean water is a drying problem. Category 3 water and heavy soot are contamination problems, and the threshold for discarding porous items drops sharply.
  • Time in contact. Wet paper, textiles and leather change state quickly, and soot becomes harder to remove the longer it stays on a surface.
  • Replacement cost against restoration cost. Nobody should be paying more to clean an item than to replace it, and this is a legitimate reason for a write-off.
  • Sentimental and irreplaceable value, which is not the same test. Photographs and documents are frequently worth an intervention that makes no economic sense on paper, and you get to say so.
  • Health. Mattresses, soft toys, upholstered furniture and food that took contaminated water are commonly written off on that basis regardless of appearance.
  • Whether the finish or mechanism survived, not only the surface — a cabinet whose veneer delaminated or a device whose board corroded is not saved by cleaning the outside.

What the work involves, in order

  1. Document before anything moves

    Room-by-room photographs and video, then close-ups of damaged items. This is yours to do as well as theirs, it costs nothing, and it is the evidence the whole contents claim rests on.

  2. Build the inventory

    Every item recorded with a description, a room of origin, a condition, a photograph and usually a box number. Good operations do this with barcodes and give you a copy. Ask for the copy at the start rather than at the end.

  3. Sort into salvageable, non-salvageable and specialist

    Three streams. The non-salvageable stream stays documented and, where possible, physically available until the adjuster has seen it or released you in writing.

  4. Pack and transport, if packing out

    Boxed by room, labelled against the inventory, loaded and moved to the facility. You should be able to ask where your things are and get an answer.

  5. Clean and deodorise

    Methods matched to material: ultrasonic baths for hard goods, wet or dry cleaning for textiles, HEPA vacuuming and dry sponging for soot, hydroxyl or ozone chambers for odour, corrosion treatment for electronics.

  6. Treat the specialist categories

    Wet documents and photographs are commonly frozen to stop deterioration and then vacuum freeze-dried. Electronics are dealt with by a technician, not by rice and hope. Art and instruments go to conservators.

  7. Store while the building is repaired

    Climate-controlled storage billed by the month, which means the rebuild timeline is also a contents cost. This is a real reason to keep the reconstruction moving.

  8. Deliver back and reconcile

    Items returned, placed, and checked against the inventory. Discrepancies are raised then, in writing, not remembered later.

On-site cleaning or pack-out?

On-site cleaning and pack-out are the two routes, and they are frequently combined — most of the house cleaned in place, a subset packed out to a facility. What matters is that the choice is made deliberately and written down, because it changes the bill and the timeline.

Clean in placeItems cleaned and left in the building, sometimes moved to an unaffected room. Cheapest, fastest, and only viable when there is somewhere dry and secure to put them and the rebuild will not need that space.
Move on siteContents relocated within the property — into a garage, a pod on the driveway, an unaffected floor. Avoids transport cost and keeps you near your own things. Depends on secure space that stays out of the working zone.
Pack-out to a facilityInventoried, boxed, transported, cleaned, deodorised and stored until the building is ready. The right answer for heavy smoke, category 3 water, or a rebuild that will occupy the whole house. Adds handling, transport, storage by the month and a delivery back.
Specialist subcontractDocuments, photographs, electronics, art, textiles and instruments routed to companies that do only that. Freeze-drying for wet paper, ultrasonic cleaning for hard goods, corrosion treatment for circuit boards.
Non-salvageable disposalItems recorded on the inventory, photographed, priced, and then disposed of with the adjuster’s agreement. The paperwork is the point. Disposal without it is the same as throwing away money.
Owner-retainedYou keep and handle certain items yourself. Perfectly normal, particularly for anything private. Record them on the inventory anyway so the claim is complete.

What moves the price

A contents bill is built from handling and time rather than square footage. It is the part of a restoration invoice people least expect and most often fail to check.

FactorWhy it changes the number
Volume of contentsA full house is a different job from one room. Priced by the labour and the boxes, not by the value of what is in them.
Inventory labourItem-level recording takes time and it is a line. It is also the line that protects the rest of the claim, so it is the wrong one to cut.
On site versus packed outPack-out adds packing materials, loading, transport, facility handling, storage and a return delivery. Each of those is separate.
Storage durationBilled monthly. A rebuild that drifts by three months drags the contents bill with it, which is an argument for agreeing the reconstruction scope early.
Cleaning methodHEPA vacuuming and wiping is one rate. Ultrasonic cleaning, textile restoration and odour chambers are others.
Specialist categoriesDocument freeze-drying, photograph recovery, electronics decontamination, art and instrument conservation are subcontracted and priced by the specialist.
Category of exposureCategory 3 water or heavy soot means more protective equipment, more disposal and a higher proportion written off.
DisposalRemoving and legally disposing of contaminated contents is labour plus tipping, and after a regional event disposal capacity itself gets tight.

HyreRestore publishes no average contents restoration price. Volume, exposure, how much is packed out and how long storage runs move the figure far too much for an average to help you check the invoice in front of you.

How the claim usually treats contents

What follows is how standard homeowners and renters policies commonly treat contents, not what your policy says. Your declarations page decides the real answer, and contents is the part of it most worth reading before a loss.

A separate limitPersonal property is usually its own cover part with its own limit, often expressed as a percentage of the dwelling limit on a homeowners policy. Under an NFIP flood policy, building and contents are bought separately altogether.
Sub-limits by categoryJewellery, watches, furs, firearms, silverware, collectibles, business property and cash commonly carry sub-limits well below the overall contents limit. The sub-limit applies even when the overall limit is nowhere near exhausted.
Scheduled personal propertyNamed items listed individually on the policy, usually with an appraisal, often with a lower or no deductible, and insured for an agreed amount rather than a depreciated one. This is how the sub-limit problem is solved, and it has to be done before the loss.
ACV or replacement costContents are frequently settled at actual cash value first, with the depreciation released once you replace the item and show the receipt. That has a cash-flow consequence people rarely anticipate.
Proof of ownershipThe burden is generally on you to establish what you had. Photographs, receipts, manuals, credit-card history and old insurance schedules all count. A video walkthrough of your own house, filmed now, is the cheapest insurance-adjacent thing you will ever do.
Pack-out and storage as covered costsMoving and storing contents while the building is repaired is commonly treated as part of the loss rather than as an extra. Whether it comes out of the contents limit or elsewhere varies, and is worth asking about explicitly.
Non-salvageable itemsNormally settled as a loss item by item from the inventory. This is precisely why the inventory has to exist before the items go, and why disposal needs the adjuster’s agreement.
Additional living expensesA different cover part again, covering the extra cost of living elsewhere. Keep every receipt from day one, and note that standard NFIP flood policies generally do not include it.

Coverage is decided by your own policy and the peril, not by what is typical. Read the declarations page, and where the answer matters, put the question to your insurer in writing.

The rule that protects more money than any other on this site. Throw nothing away until the adjuster has seen it or released you in writing. Not the ruined mattress, not the warped bookcase, not the box of soaked papers. Photograph it, inventory it, bag it, put it in the garage — and if it genuinely cannot stay, get written agreement before it goes. Early disposal is one of the most common reasons a contents settlement comes back smaller than the loss.

Build a contents inventory

What to ask before you sign

  • Will I be given a copy of the inventory, and in what format?
  • Are you recommending on-site cleaning or pack-out, and what specifically drives that recommendation here?
  • How is storage billed, and what happens if the rebuild takes longer than expected?
  • Which items are you calling non-salvageable, and has the adjuster agreed before anything is disposed of?
  • Who handles documents, photographs and electronics — you, or a specialist you subcontract?
  • Is the contents scope a separate document from the structure scope? Can I see both?
  • How do I retrieve an item from storage if I need it before the rebuild is finished?
  • What is your process if something is lost or damaged in your care?
  • Are there items you want me to keep and handle myself?
  • What am I signing — a work authorisation for contents only, or something broader?

The full ten-point checklist is on choosing a restoration company.

What to have ready

  • Video of every room filmed from the doorway, before anything moved.
  • Close-up photographs of each damaged item with the damage visible.
  • Receipts, manuals, appraisals and warranty cards for anything of value.
  • Your policy declarations page, so you know the contents limit and any sub-limits.
  • A list of scheduled items, if you have any.
  • A list of anything irreplaceable, flagged for the technician on day one rather than found in a box later.
  • Somewhere secure identified for anything you intend to keep with you.

Where this goes wrong

Clearing up before documenting

The instinct to tidy is strong and it is the wrong one. A room photographed as it was, however grim it looks, is worth more to your claim than a room made presentable. Tidy after the camera, not before it.

Letting contents be treated as part of the structure scope

When contents work disappears into a single lump sum, nobody can tell what was charged for moving furniture and what for drying walls. Ask for two documents. This is also how contents sub-limits get missed entirely.

Not knowing about sub-limits until the settlement

The overall contents limit is not the limit that applies to jewellery, firearms or collectibles. Those sub-limits are in the policy now, and the only way to raise them is to schedule the items before anything happens.

Assuming storage is free time

Storage is billed by the month, so a rebuild that stalls costs money in a place people are not watching. Agreeing the reconstruction scope early is a contents saving as well as a structural one.

Sending irreplaceable items through the general process

Photographs, documents and family papers have specific, time-sensitive routes — commonly freezing to arrest deterioration, then vacuum freeze-drying. Flag them on day one. By week three the option has often closed.

Trying to dry electronics yourself

Water and soot both cause progressive corrosion on circuit boards, and powering a device on to test it is frequently what finishes it. Leave it off and let someone who does this work look at it.

Common questions

What is a pack-out?

A pack-out is when a restoration company inventories your belongings, boxes them, transports them to its facility, cleans and deodorises them there, stores them while the building is repaired, and delivers them back. It is the right call when the contamination is heavy, when odour needs specialist treatment, or when the rebuild will occupy the whole house. It is not free: packing, transport, facility handling, monthly storage and the return delivery are all separate lines, and they are commonly part of the claim rather than out of pocket.

Is contents restoration covered by insurance?

Personal property is usually its own cover part on a homeowners or renters policy, with its own limit and its own sub-limits for categories like jewellery, firearms and collectibles. Under an NFIP flood policy, building and contents are purchased separately, so it is possible to hold one without the other. Whether cleaning, pack-out and storage are paid, and out of which limit, varies — ask the adjuster directly and get the answer in writing. What is covered goes through it peril by peril.

Can I throw away ruined belongings before the adjuster comes?

Do not, unless you have written release. Damaged items are the evidence for that part of the claim, and early disposal is one of the most common causes of a reduced contents settlement. Photograph everything, list it, and if something genuinely cannot stay in the building for health reasons, get the adjuster or the insurer to agree in writing first — an email is enough. Bagging an item and putting it in the garage is usually preferable to a skip.

Can wet photographs and documents be saved?

Often, if they are dealt with quickly. The standard route is to freeze wet paper and photographic material to arrest deterioration, and then vacuum freeze-dry it, which turns the ice directly to vapour rather than letting the pages go through a wet phase again. Specialist document recovery companies do this work. The window is short — days rather than weeks — so this is the category to flag on day one.

What about electronics that got wet or sooty?

Leave them switched off and unplugged, and do not test them. Both water and soot cause progressive corrosion on circuit boards and connectors, and applying power is frequently what turns a recoverable device into a dead one. Electronics decontamination is a specialist job involving cleaning and corrosion treatment at the board level. Whether it is worth doing depends on the device: it is routinely justified for a server or a studio instrument and rarely for a five-year-old television.

What cannot be restored?

Porous items that took category 3 water — sewage or floodwater — are commonly written off regardless of appearance, including mattresses, upholstered furniture, soft toys, pillows and particle-board furniture that has swollen. Food and medicines exposed to contaminated water or heavy smoke go. Anything whose structure or mechanism failed, rather than its surface, is usually beyond cleaning. And anything that costs more to restore than to replace is a legitimate write-off, which is a decision you should be shown rather than told about.

How do I prove what I owned?

The burden generally sits with you. Photographs and video of your own home, receipts, credit-card and bank history, manuals, warranty registrations, appraisals, and any existing insurance schedule all count. The most useful thing you can do is a slow video walkthrough of every room and every open cupboard, filmed on a normal day and stored somewhere that is not in the house. It takes fifteen minutes and it is the difference between a list and an argument.

What are scheduled personal property and sub-limits?

A sub-limit is a cap that applies to a specific category within your overall contents limit — jewellery, watches, furs, firearms, silverware, collectibles, cash and business property commonly have them, and they are often far lower than people assume. Scheduling means listing a specific item on the policy, usually with an appraisal, for an agreed value. Scheduled items typically sit outside the sub-limit and often carry a lower deductible. It has to be done before the loss; it cannot be done after.

Does contents work delay the rebuild?

It is more often the other way around. Rooms usually have to be emptied before structural repairs can start, so a contents crew that is waiting for a decision holds up the building work. And because storage bills monthly, a slow reconstruction pushes the contents cost up in a place nobody is watching. Agreeing the reconstruction scope early helps both.

Can I do the inventory myself?

Yes, and doing your own alongside the contractor’s is better than relying on either alone. Work room by room, photograph each item with the damage visible, note what it is, roughly when you bought it and roughly what it cost, and keep the file somewhere outside the house. Where a professional inventory exists, compare the two and raise discrepancies in writing at the time rather than at the end.

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Information on this page is general and may vary by state, by policy, by peril, by building and by your own circumstances. It is not insurance, legal or medical advice, and it is not a substitute for professional assessment of a damaged property. HyreRestore is an independent restoration information resource and connection platform, not a restoration contractor, insurer or public adjuster, and does not perform, supervise or warrant any restoration work.

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